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Hello there! I'm a young francophile who loves to wander around tiny towns as well as giant cities. I try to be a visitor instead of a tourist. On trips to unknown places, I let towns unravel themselves before my eyes. Oftentimes, they have more to say than what's in my guide book. Specialties: Searching French train schedules. Taking the wrong train, leaving me five hours away from my intended destination. Convincing train conductors to let me board trains even though I don't have reservations. Loving Aix-en-Provence. Saving money in Paris. Appreciating London's contributions to Western culture in 20 hours. If you have any questions about France or trains, feel free to post a thread or send a message to politicslovr on the SU Forums.

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Beyond Paris - Part IV

April 8th, 2008 • Related • Filed Under

When asked about big cities in France, most people think of the biggest one - Paris. But the second biggest city deserves a visit, too. On your next trip, head south of Paris to experience the vibrant life in Marseille.


Ruins from Massalia

Originally founded by Greek sailors (who named it Massalia), the city of Marseille mixes the hustle and bustle of New York with Provençal sunshine. It makes a great day trip from Avignon, Aix-en-Provence, or anywhere else in the area.

While in Marseille, don’t miss the Chateau d’If, unfortunate home of Dumas’s Count of Monte Cristo. Catch the boat at the Vieux Port (old port) to get there.

Remember to take the tourist train to Notre Dame de la Garde: the inside is stunning, the exterior quite reflective. La Bonne Mère (the statue of the Virgin Mary on top of the church) literally watches over the city - and so some have asked for her protection. To show gratitude for her protection and assistance, sailors have constructed model ships after surviving shipwrecks. Others, such as students who did well on a difficult test, have had plaques engraved with messages of thanks. These plaques surround the wall around the church.

Getting there: Take the (TGV) train or the bus* to Marseille St. Charles.
Enjoying it: Catch the little tourist train at the Vieux Port. It will carry you up the steep hill to Notre Dame de la Garde. From there, appreciate the Romanesque/Byzantine architecture and the huge dents in the wall left from bombing campaigns in World War II.
Upside: Has great couscous and bouillabaisse. Keep an eye out for the cows.
Downside: A bit dirty in some parts…but what city isn’t Confused
How long should you stay? 1 to 2 days
What it looks like:

View of the city from Notre Dame de la Garde


The Mediterranean at Chateau d’If


An avenue in Marseile, with Porte d’Aix in background

*Transportation note: I would suggest taking the bus instead of the train: it’s cheaper and easier. The bus (4.60E each way) leaves from the Gare routière in Aix and drops you off the Marseille Porte d’Aix, an Arc de Triomphe-like structure.

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